Setting Princess Cut Diamonds

$179.00
Total ---
Instructed by Blaine Lewis, Edited and Animated by Christopher Mendola
Running Time: 2 hours, 11 minutes

Pointed stones, like the popular square princess cut, require special setting techniques in order to avoid stone chipping and breakage. This exceptional video teaches you how to set princess cut diamonds into common or round prongs as well as V prongs and even thin die struck V prongs. But the techniques apply to any pointed stone: square, rectangular, trillion, marquise, pear, heart, stepped baguettes etc. For example, when setting a center stone with trillions on each side, two points of each trillion will probably be set into common prongs. In all cases, the fragile points of the stone must be set properly to avoid breakage and Blaine Lewis shows you exactly how to do it.

Blaine Lewis is a superstar teacher and this just-released video sets a new standard in both instructional expertise and production quality. The combination of high-magnification video, 3D animation and still frame graphics are extremely effective in explaining ideas. Combined with Mr. Lewis' patient and expert tutoring, students will quickly grasp and implement the techniques shown.

The video starts with an impressive demonstration of how a princess cut set into 4 round prongs is incredibly secure. From there Mr. Lewis goes into great depth showing you how to make your pointed stone settings completely secure. No more cracked or chipped stones!

The photography is incredibly close and detailed – you can clearly see all techniques. And Mr. Lewis's true gift as a teacher is that he holds nothing back. He genuinely wants you to learn the techniques so he explains things clearly, demonstrating everything and showing you not only what to do, but what not to do and why. After watching this video, you will feel confident to begin setting princess cuts and other pointed stones.

The video is well-organized and thoughtfully laid out. The chapter feature of the DVD allows you to jump from section to section quickly while the VHS version is color coded so that you can fast forward review chapters easily. Both DVD and VHS include a Practice Set of two tiffany style mountings, two V-prong basket mountings, two princess cut CZs, one 0.06mm ball bur and two sizes of hart burs so you can immediately put into practice what you learn.

The Art of Setting Princess Cuts, Chapter Headings:

Introduction, The Princess Cut Stone

PART ONE: Setting Princess Cut Stones into Common or Round Prongs
Chapter One, Common Prongs: Preparation and Layout
  1. Estimating the Fit
  2. Measuring for Proper Fit
  3. Adjusting the Prongs
  4. Leveling the Prongs
  5. Marking the Bearing Location
Chapter Two, Common Prongs: Bearing Cutting
  1. Cutting the Ball Pocket
  2. Cutting the Keel Line
  3. Cutting the Bearing
  4. Deepening the Pavilion
  5. Refining the Cavity
  6. Cutting the Upper Keel
  7. Clean-Out and Final Inspection
Chapter Three, Common Prongs: Setting the Stone
  1. Spreading the Prongs
  2. Stage One Tightening
  3. Stage Two Tightening, Part 1
  4. Elastic & Plastic Deformation
  5. Stage Two Tightening, Part 2
  6. Shaping the Prongs
  7. Finishing the Prongs
Chapter Four, Common Prongs: Additional Techniques
  1. Vector Tightening
  2. Vertical Cut Prongs
PART TWO: Setting Princess Cut Stones into V Prongs
Chapter One, V Prong Baskets: Preparation and Layout
  1. Estimating the Fit
  2. Measuring for Proper Fit
  3. Leveling the Prongs
  4. Marking the Bearing Location
Chapter Two, V Prong Baskets: Bearing Cutting
  1. Cutting the Ball Pocket
  2. Cutting the Keel Line
  3. Cutting the Bearing
  4. Deepening the Pavilion
  5. Cutting the Upper Keel
  6. Clean-Out and Final Inspection
Chapter Three, V Prong Baskets: Setting the Stone
  1. Spreading the Prongs
  2. Stage One Tightening
  3. Stage Two Tightening
  4. Stage Three Tightening
  5. Re-evaluating Fit and Security
  6. Shaping the Prongs
  7. Finishing the Prongs
Chapter Four, Techniques for Thin V Prongs
  1. Bearing Cutting
  2. Setting Procedures
PART THREE: Tools & Tips
  1. Annealing
  2. Posture at the Bench
  3. Hand Positioning
  4. Tool Modification
  5. Graver Preparation
Blaine Lewis heads the New Approach School for Jewelers in Virginia Beach, Virginia. If you cannot get to New Approach School, you can bring his classroom right into your home or workshop. Whether you're a novice or an experienced stone setter, this video will be a prized possession and a invaluable resource to which you'll refer again and again.
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